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Wall “sandwich” of dustcrete and permeable insulation

2026-07-01 10:15
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Wall “sandwich” of dustcrete and permeable insulation symphyotrichum | Posted in General Questions on July 1, 2026 06:15am Hello everyone,I’m building a 16 x 20 addition on an existing timber frame in...

Wall “sandwich” of dustcrete and permeable insulation

symphyotrichum | Posted in General Questions on

Hello everyone,
I’m building a 16 x 20 addition on an existing timber frame in climate zone 6 (central Maine). As part of the process, I would like to experiment with some traditional building techniques such as an exterior lime-based plaster and interior clay-based plasters. The building will be conditioned and occupied.

I would like to use a dustcrete infill around conventional framing. Dustcrete is an analog of hempcrete but uses softwood sawdust (in my case) as the filler and a lime-based binder. Like hempcrete, this material is layed up wet and when dried is plastered on both interior and exterior surfaces. The structure will have large overhangs to protect the plastered walls. I have poured my footer but have not yet poured the foundation walls because wall thickness is in part depending upon my decision on this topic. 

Dustcrete, like hempcrete is often described/marketed as a monolithic wall with decent temperature swing modulations. However, on a per-inch basis the R-value is low compared to more mainstream materials (around 1.5 per inch depending upon sawdust type, packing density, etc.). I’m considering building walls that have dustcrete on both the exterior and the interior, with a layer of either rockwool or wood fiber insulation in the center to raise the R-value.

My primary concern with this system would be the length of drying time for the dustcrete and the amount of moisture that the insulation would take on before being able to dry completely. On each side of the insulation I would leave the wooden laths used for forming and keying in the dustcrete, which would potentially leave a small air channel. I could leave a wider airspace between the layers if that would be beneficial.

Of course, the other consideration is foundation wall thickness. If I go the monolithic route (no additional insulation beyond dustcrete) I’ll likely pour a 12″ thick wall. I could go with a thinner wall (and much less concrete) with the “sandwich” wall.

1. Has anyone had any experience with this type of wall assembly and/or what are your thoughts about the insulation being able to withstand the water content during the drying period? I would prefer to use wood fiber but would opt for mineral wool if the initial wetness is too risky. I’m also going to reach out to Timber HP to get their take on using their product in this fashion.

2. Despite the overall lower r-value of the wall without the added insulation, do you think overall wall performance would be better in the monolithic scenario? In other words, is it worth the trouble to add this insulation? 

Thanks for your help,
Eric

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Replies

  1. Expert Member
    PETER Engle | | #1

    No direct experience with dustcrete/hempcrete type products. I would point out using it as the whole wall material at 12" gives an R-value or R18. That's less than half of what you should have in zone 6.

    Speculating now about your proposal and questions. Rockwool should have no trouble with the moisture during the curing and drying process. I'd also think that TimberHP could take it because of their treatments for the wood fibers, though I would like to hear what TimberHP says. A 12" wall of this stuff would take quite some time to fully dry out, maybe even a year or so. Wide overhangs would certainly help by reducing exterior wetting. But this sort of wall really doesn't care much about wetting. As a mass wall it absorbs moisture when it's wet and releases it when it dries. My primary concern would be with decay of the sawdust used as a filler. Also bulk shrinkage of the wall as it dries initially.

    As an industry, I'm not sure we have enough knowledge with these materials to predict long term performance in your climate. With or without the added insulation, this is going to be a very labor intensive wall to build. If your main driver is the desire for lime plaster finish, there are probably easier and cheaper ways to get there. But if you're up for experimenting on your own house, nobody's going to stop you. Who knows - it might be fun.

    1. symphyotrichum | | #2

      Hi Peter, thanks for your reply. It primarily is to experiment with the methods. The sawdust (reportedly) receives some decay resistance from the pH of the lime in the mix itself and that in the plaster. However, I believe most of these builds are happening in areas with much less precipitation than Maine so it truly would be experimental. The bulk shrinkage is a good point.
      Thanks again,
      Eric

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Source: symphyotrichum · www.greenbuildingadvisor.com